Border & Finishing Guide for Custom Patches

Q: Is laser cut better than merrowed?

Not 'better,' just different. Laser Cut is for complex shapes; Merrowed is for simple shapes and durability.

How edge styles and finishing details affect durability, appearance, and performance, explained simply.

A patch without a proper border is just a piece of loose fabric waiting to fall apart. The border isn’t just a decoration; it is the structural seal that prevents the threads from unspooling and the backing from separating.

If you are outfitting a team for the oil fields or manufacturing uniform insignia for a JBSA squadron, you need to know the difference between a Merrowed Edge and a Laser Cut Edge. Choose the wrong one, and your patches will fray before the first wash.

Merrowed Edge Overlock Stitching

Laser Cut Heat Sealed Edge

Side-by-side comparison of custom patch borders showing heat cut (hot cut) edge on the left and merrow overlock stitched border on the right.

Why Borders & Finishing Matter

Think of a patch border like the hem on a pair of jeans. If you cut the denim and don’t hem it, it unravels into a stringy mess.

Durability

The border locks the embroidery thread, the fabric base (twill), and the backing together into a single unit.

Aesthetics

A thick border makes the patch pop off the garment. A thin border makes it blend in.

Protection

In the humid San Antonio climate, moisture gets into exposed fabric edges. A sealed border keeps the moisture out and the patch flat.

The Main Patch Border Types

There are two industry standards you will see 99% of the time, plus a few specialty options.

Merrowed Border

Classic Raised Edge

What it is: A thick, raised piping that wraps around the edge of the patch from front to back. It is applied after the patch is cut using a specialized “overlock” sewing machine.

The Look: Traditional, heavy, and uniform. This is what you see on Boy Scout badges, police uniforms, and classic trucker hat patches.

Pros: Extremely durable. It creates a “bumper” that protects the edge from abrasion.

Cons: It can only handle simple shapes (Circles, Squares, Shields). A merrowing machine cannot turn sharp inside corners or handle complex jagged shapes.

Laser Cut Edge

Heat-Sealed Precision

What it is: We use a high-powered laser to cut the patch out of the fabric sheet. The heat from the laser cauterizes (melts) the polyester threads instantly, sealing the edge.

The Look: Flat, sharp, and clean. The design goes all the way to the edge.

Pros: Allows for infinite shape complexity. If your logo has jagged lightning bolts or deep cutouts, this is the only option.

Cons: It is thinner than a merrowed border. It doesn’t have that heavy “bumper” protection.

Round custom embroidered Texas patch featuring a barbecue smoker, Texas star, and sunset background with bold 'TEXAS' text and merrowed border.

Stitched Border

Satin Stitch

What it is: A thick line of embroidery stitched inside the edge of the patch, but it doesn’t wrap around the edge.

The Use Case: When you want the “look” of a thick border on a complex shape where a merrow machine physically can’t reach.

High-detail no-border printed patch featuring a colorful eagle with multicolored feathers and decorative chest medallion on dark textured background.

No Border / Raw Edge

Cut Material

What it is: Just the cut material.

The Use Case: Mostly seen on Printed Patches or Woven Labels that are meant to be sewn into a seam.

Warning: If you don’t heat-seal this, it will fray.

Patch Finishing Options Explained

Beyond the visual border, we use finishing techniques to ensure longevity.

Heat-Sealed Edges

Even if you order a Merrowed border, we often run a hot knife or laser around the raw twill before applying the border. This ensures that no white threads poke through the darker border stitching later.

Overlocked Stitching

This is the technical term for Merrowing. It uses three separate threads looping together to create that dense, rope-like finish. It is the strongest mechanical bond in the textile industry.

Fray Protection & Edge Sealing

For Woven Patches, which are thinner, we often apply a light liquid fray-check or heat treatment to the back of the border to stiffen it up so it doesn’t curl in the dryer.

Choosing The Right Border

Don’t reinvent the wheel. Here is the standard pairing for each material.

Reference Table 1.0: Recommended border finishes by material type.
Patch Type	Recommendation	Why?
Embroidered Patches	Standard: Merrowed Custom: Laser Cut	Merrowed looks the most “finished” and traditional. Use Laser Cut only for complex custom shapes.
Woven Patches	Laser Cut	Woven patches are thin and flat. A heavy merrowed border can sometimes look too bulky on a delicate woven patch.
PVC / Rubber Patches	Sewing Channel	You can’t stitch through thick rubber with a merrow machine. Instead, we mold a small groove around the edge where the needle can stitch it to the garment.
Leather Patches	Laser Cut	To make it look traditional, we often etch a “faux stitch line” inside the border, but we rarely wrap thread around the raw edge of leather.
Chenille Patches	Merrowed	Chenille is built on a felt backing. You need a heavy merrowed border to physically hold the felt and the yarn together.
Printed Patches	Merrowed	Since printed patches are very flat, adding a Merrowed border frames the artwork like a picture, making it look higher quality.

Border Styles by Patch Shape

Geometry dictates the machine we can use.

Merrowed is King

Circular & Oval

The machine spins the patch in a perfect circle. It’s fast, clean, and the industry standard.

Merrowed Works Great

Rectangular & Shield

The operator manually turns the patch at the corners. Perfect for police shields and name tapes.

Laser Cut Only

Custom Die-Cut

If your design has “innies” (concave angles, like the space between star legs), a merrow machine breaks. You must use Laser Cut.

Factory Insight

The “Inside Corner” Rule

Here is a quick test. Look at the outline of your logo. Does it have any sharp inside corners (like the letter “V”)? If yes, you cannot use a Merrowed border. The machine can only sew on outside curves.

The Fix: We can put your complex shape onto a simple background (like a circle or shield) to allow for a Merrowed border, or you can switch to Laser Cut.

Border Durability Comparison

Merrowed Border Durability Winner

Lifespan 10+ Years

It is a literal physical barrier. The overlocked thread wraps around the edge, protecting the raw fabric from ever touching the elements.

Best For: Oil field coveralls, Uniforms, and maintaining structural integrity for martial arts gear and heavy industrial use.

Laser Cut Edge Precision Winner

Lifespan 5–7 Years

The heat seal is strong, but it is just melted polyester. Over time, heavy washing and friction can cause the very edge to “fuzz” slightly.

Best For: Flight suits, tactical vests, and complex promo patches.

Artwork Quality Control

Common Border & Finishing Mistakes

We see these errors in artwork files every day. Avoid them to save time.

CASE #001 STATUS: REJECTED

The “Impossible Turn”

The Mistake

Asking for a Merrowed border on a Star or a Shield with deep notches.

The Reality

The merrow machine has a foot that needs space to turn. It cannot sew into a sharp “V” shape without breaking the needle or bunching up the thread.

THE FIX If you need that sharp shape, you must use a Laser Cut edge.

CASE #002 STATUS: REJECTED

The “Invisible” Border

The Mistake

Matching the border color exactly to the garment color (e.g., Black Border on a Black Shirt).

The Reality

This makes the patch look smaller and sometimes “cheap” because the edge disappears.

THE FIX Use a contrasting border or a shade lighter/darker (e.g., Charcoal border on a Black patch) to frame the design properly.

CASE #003 STATUS: CRITICAL

The “Raw Edge” Gamble

The Mistake

Asking for no border/raw edge on a standard twill patch to save money.

The Reality

Without a heat seal or stitching, that patch will unravel the moment it hits the washing machine. It will look like a rag in two weeks.

THE FIX Always specify at least a Laser Cut/Heat Seal.

How Borders & Finishing Affect Pricing

Does a fancy border cost more? Sometimes.

$$$

Standard Price

Laser Cut

For custom shapes, this is the default method. There is usually no extra charge because the laser cuts the patch out anyway.

$$$

Small Upcharge (Sometimes)

Merrowed

Because this requires a human operator to physically run the patch through a second machine (the overlocker), it adds labor. However, for simple circles and squares, it is often included in the base price.

$$$

Higher Price

Complex Cuts

If your patch has internal cutouts (like a donut hole), the laser has to run longer, and “weeding” the excess material takes time.

Frequently Asked Questions About Patch Borders

Answers to common questions about edge finishing, thickness, and style.

Durability

Which border lasts the longest?

Merrowed. It is a reinforced thread bumper. It survives industrial laundering better than any other finish.

Production

Can I change the border after production?

No. The border is the final step. Once we cut the patch or sew the edge, it cannot be undone without destroying the patch.

Thickness

Does border choice affect patch thickness?

Yes. A Merrowed border adds significant thickness to the edge (about 1/8th inch). A Laser Cut patch remains perfectly flat (paper thin) at the edge.

Comparison

Is laser cut better than merrowed?

Not “better,” just different. Laser Cut is for complex shapes; Merrowed is for simple shapes and durability.

Customization

Can I combine border styles?

You can simulate it. We can use a Satin Stitch (embroidery) just inside the edge to look like a border, and then Laser Cut the outside. This gives you the look of a heavy border with the shape flexibility of a laser cut.